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Nigel Cabourn




Product number: 80470010000

Nigel Cabourn's classic BD shirt "British Officers Shirt-Vintage Oxford"

Nigel Cabourn, known for its sustainability and sturdiness, has been making it as a standard for over 10 years. This product is there.
At the time, the chief designer of the Japanese side, whose depth of knowledge Nigel respected, happened to come across vintage French workwear canvas pants one day. "If we could create something amazing, wouldn't it be possible to create something amazing?" I thought to myself and proposed this to Nigel, and that's how it all started.
Of course, even if you simply reproduce it, it will only become a sturdy pants material.
First of all, we started by reducing the thickness to the thickness of the shirt material while maintaining the rigidity, and after repeated trial weaving, we created a special weave using 1/5 of the warp yarn compared to the weft yarn. You will discover the golden ratio.
The next thing I researched was weft thread.
In search of a balance between supple and strong, we came up with a special formulation based on extra-long cotton.
The more you twist the thread, the stronger and stiffer it becomes.
I needed to adjust the twist coefficient to prevent it from becoming too hard, so I started looking for raw materials.
By twisting two more threads together, a strong, straight, and flexible thread was created.

Generally, when weaving fabric, we weave it at a tremendous speed, so we apply tension to the intention and weave it neatly and evenly.
It is an efficient weaving method that is less prone to accidents.
The exact opposite is hand-woven.
Since it is woven slowly, the natural texture of the material is brought out, but it takes a lot of time and effort.
We aim to get as close to the hand-woven texture as possible, taking advantage of the fluffy texture while also achieving a reasonable price.
Considering such contradictory things, I became selfish in the entire fabric process, from specifying the loom to weaving speed.
This is a skillful technique that combines the wisdom, experience, and technology of craftsmen who are able to discern just when an accident will occur.

In doing so, we were finally able to weave a special berry fabric that combines the gentle texture of cotton, the natural luster and suppleness of extra-long staple cotton, and the durability of pant material. .

We pay special attention to the sewing aspect, and carefully sew with the thread count and number of stitches that match the weave density.We are especially particular about the detailed but very important button attachment.

I used a Japanese-made button sewing machine that was purposely designed to allow the thread to get tangled.
So you just button it a certain number of times? ...Instead, I stop the sewing machine halfway through and thread the sewing machine twice for each button attachment.

We use natural shell buttons, and we have carefully selected buttons with a finish that is difficult to break, based on Milspec TYPE 24/25.

Since then, we have not had any complaints about missing or missing buttons for more than 10 years since we released the product.
Of course, we as employees put it through a lot of abuse ourselves, but it was surprisingly durable.

The standard standard for the number of durability tests based on the product inspection period is 10 to 15 times, but 2 out of 3 items withstood 100 washes, resulting in no damage to the stitching or fabric damage. We achieved amazing results with no fraying or buttons coming off.
The remaining 1 item had a button chipping after the 75th wear, but if you convert that test data into the actual wear frequency period, the buttons themselves will last 2 and a half to 4 years, and the others will last longer. got it.
Not only that, but it is even softer and easier to wear.

This is a long explanation, but the point is that this product was completed after such careful development preparation, and it has become a masterpiece that can be called a standard among Nigel Cabourn's classics that will not fade even after 10 years. is.

Please experience it for yourself.

*This product is a continuation product, so the published part number and the purchased product may differ.
Thank you for your understanding.



Length: 48/75.5cm, 50/77.5cm, 52/ 80cm
Body width: 48/54.3cm, 50/56.7cm, 52/59.1cm
Shoulder width: 48/44.4cm, 50/46.6cm, 52/48.3cm
Sleeve length: 48/65.2cm, 50 /66.4cm, 52/67.6cm

Who is Nigel Cabourn
British designer Nigel Cabourn is a world-renowned collector of vintage military, workwear and outdoor wear. Kaybon collection.
Inspired by a vintage collection of more than 4,000 items that he has collected over 30 years, his collections are timeless and reinvented into something new.
It is very distinctive that Nigel himself divides his own designs into British production (authentic line) and Japanese production (main line).
The former mainly uses British-derived materials such as Harris Tweed and Ventile, and includes items produced at Mackintosh factories and Scottish knitting factories, while the latter includes unique fabrics that can only be made in Japan. By sorting out items that utilize dyeing and processing techniques that are impossible to achieve, we create a collection that cannot be found anywhere else.